Easter Eden

If you're thinking of venturing into town to witness the extraordinary atmosphere of Semana Santa, here are some tips

Peter Edgerton

Malaga

Friday, 11 April 2025, 11:42

As time pings by, accelerating at a rate to baffle any boffin, Holy Week has arrived once again and the full flavour of Spanish tradition and cultural history can be witnessed in all its glory right here on our doorstep.

For example, on Good Friday and Holy Saturday, the town of Riogordo will - as it has since 1951 - once again host El Paso, a performance by over five hundred actors of the life, passion and crucifixion of Christ. Other towns and villages are available (but we love this one).

Locally, the most popular commemoration of events takes place in the city of Malaga, where, throughout the week, over 80 thrones - weighing up to four tons in some cases - are carried on participants' shoulders through the throngs of devotees packed into every conceivable nook and, indeed, cranny of the town's streets. It really is quite something to behold.

If you're thinking of venturing into town to witness the extraordinary atmosphere, here are some tips.

First, there's little need to bring much with you except an itinerary of the processions and a whole lot of patience. Prepare to wait for inordinate lengths of time at random points as you try to make your way through the masses. Don't arrange to meet anyone anywhere at any time because it will be impossible not to arrive hours late with your hair nearly as frazzled as your temper.

Secondly, if you find yourself needing the bathroom, buy a bottle of water in a bar/restaurant to facilitate access. The owners don't put up signs saying 'customers only' to be mean-spirited, but rather in a somewhat futile attempt to stem the incessant tide of incoming people. Better still, leave a tip.

As we all know, it's an obligation during Holy Week to get stuck into a baked potato served at some point in the proceedings. The queueing system may be a little ad hoc but it's well worth it. Always ask for the spud with the prefix 'super' or the suffix 'azo', either of which will leave you not needing to eat again until somewhere around Christmas Eve. As you tuck into the skin of the potato at the end - always the best bit - be sure to hide your antics from any nearby Spanish people who, if they see you doing this, will immediately cover their children's eyes and swoon on the spot. It's the cultural equivalent of somebody eating the newspaper that wrapped the fish and chips in the UK in days when they used to do things like that.

Also available are waffles drowned in a mountain of cream and chocolate, most of which will end up on the tip of your nose, causing much mirth among any assembled local teenagers. Or maybe that was just me.

Anyway, enjoy the spectacle and do what you can to cultivate the necessary patience. Don't chant 'Om', though - that's the wrong religion.

www.peteredgerton.com

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