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They are known for their mountain landscapes and hiking trails, but also for preserving ancestral traditions. Tolox and Casarabonela are two villages in the Sierra de las Nieves area of western Malaga that will be celebrating two events over the next seven days in which history and legend, but also the religious and the pagan, are mixed together. Fire, as a symbol, will also be one of the main themes to feature in both events.
In Tolox, the Día de las Mozas ('mozas' are young women or maidens) has long been celebrated every 8 December on the feast of the Immaculate Conception, although in recent years they have wanted to push it out to a wider audience with the subtitle or slogan 'Fire and love in the Sierra de las Nieves'.
With this event the village wants to remember one of those legendary episodes from its past, set in the period of the Moorish rebellions in the 16th century. Thus, for more than a decade, this fiesta has been extended over the days prior to the 8th to celebrate a historical re-enactment in which many Tolox locals take acting parts.
In more detail, from Friday 6 to Sunday 8 you can see different scenes from the same story. It is a retelling of how the legend of the Mozas came about. Firstly it tells of the confrontation between the Moors and the Christians (based on a dispute between two women), which ends with the expulsion of the latter. Then comes the well-known part of the tale where the village is taken by a handful of young women who, with cowbells and conch shells, simulate the arrival of a large army, which causes the Moorish rebels to flee.
Besides this dramatisation of the legend, Tolox will also have a very special ambience during these three days. The Plaza Alta will be the heart of the fiesta. Not only will the theatrical scenes that tell this story take place there, but it will also be the place for most other activities.
Some of those other happenings include fire, falconry and stilt-walking displays. There will also be demonstrations of fig breadmaking, weaving workshops using esparto grass and lots of Arab dishes to taste.
However, one of the highlights of the festival will be the famous and thunderous Cencerrada, the clanging of bells and shells, which will take place on Sunday morning.
Turning now to Casarabonela, this village will celebrate the Fiesta de los Rondeles on Thursday 12 December, on the eve of Santa Lucia. There too the pagan element of fire will take centre stage, although this time in a religious procession.
From the hermitage of La Veracruz in the lower part of the village, up to the church of Santiago in the upper part, the image of the Divina Pastora will make a very special journey, accompanied by men dressed as workers from the oil mills and bearing the rondeles (or capachos - rolled up mats of esparto grass traditionally used to filter the olive oil as it is pressed). As they proceed these bundles of oil-soaked esparto are set alight as part of thanking the saintly Virgin for the good olive harvest for so many years.
As the procession draws to a close, where the only illumination is provided by the flaming torches, the culmination of this festival comes with the arrival at the church. In the church square the Moriscos - the local name for Casarabonela locals - and visitors will enjoy tasting fried pastries (buñuelos), toasted bread with olive oil and hot chocolate to add a touch of traditional flavour to this fiesta, the exact date of which is not known.
In addition to this special evening Casarabonela will be hosting two events with a lot of flavour between the following day of Friday and Sunday. Firstly, on both Friday 13 and Saturday 14 it will be possible to take part in a tapas route around the village bars and restaurants. On this route, both the names and the presentation of each special tapa will be connected to the Fiesta de los Rondeles.
Finally, on Sunday 15, it is also customary to celebrate the gastro-trail of Los Rondeles in the village streets, where the locals prepare traditional dishes to be enjoyed free of charge at lunchtime.
- Ermita de la Veracruz (Sanctuary). Within the village of Casarabonela you can see this chapel, which is known, among other reasons, for being the starting point of the procession of the Virgen de los Rondeles, as will be seen on the night of 12 December. Where: In Calle Veracruz in Casarabonela.
- Rinconada del Castillo (vestiges of a fortress). In the old part of Tolox you can find a surprising, winding layout of narrow streets in which you can catch a glimpse of some parts of an ancient medieval fortress. Where: Around the church of San Miguel Arcángel in Tolox.
- Iglesia de Santiago (the parish church). Casarabonela's main church is also the oldest. In fact, it may have been built on the site of an earlier mosque in the 19th century. Where: In the main square.
- Cruz del Padre Ventura (uphill walk). From the Plaza Alta in Tolox you can follow a 'Way of the Cross' footpath that leads to one of the emblems of the village - a large cross. From there you have excellent views of the village. Where: Access by footpath.
- Cactus Garden (for the botanists). Opposite Casarabonela, you can visit one of the best collections of cacti and other succulent plants in Europe. Where: Next to the A-7275 road.
- Cerro de Híjar (creative cuisine). Within the hotel of the same name, in an elevated area overlooking Tolox and its surroundings, this restaurant is a good option for those looking for creative, original dishes. As well as being able to order their tasting menu, there are options as different as oxtail ravioli, aubergine millefeuille, salmon poké, tuna tataki or gilt-head bream cooked in its juices. They also have different meats, from suckling Malagueña goat to duck, veal, pork or lamb. Where: Lugar Híjar, s/n. 29109 Tolox. Telephone: 952 112 111. www.cerrodehijar.com
- New (bar with homecooked food). Located opposite Casarabonela's council building, on a pedestrianed terrace with beautiful panoramic views of the surroundings, this eatery is known for its speciality in grilled meats, but also for being one of the few places where pipeo, a traditional soup from this village in Malaga, is usually made. Its breakfasts also have a very good reputation. Where: Plaza de Buenavista, 1. 29566 Casarabonela. Telephone: 952 456 572.
- The African House (rural complex). Situated in a spot quite far from Tolox village and with excellent panoramic views of the Sierra de las Nieves area, this complex has a rural house with room for 11 guests and a flat for a maximum of five guests. In either case, both options are comfortable and cosy. This complex is not only well equipped and has beautiful views, but it also has a modern decor full of nods to the culture of Kenya, the African country where the owners previously lived.
Where: Cuesta del Gallo, 5. 29109 Tolox. Telephone: 667 091 689 and 672 206 472. www.theafricanhouse.es
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