Go in search of the legend of the 'rice boat' on the Costa del Sol

Javier Almellones

Málaga

Wednesday, 7 August 2024, 19:52

Every summer diving enthusiasts flock to El Calaceite beach in Torrox Costa on the eastern Costa del Sol. Many are hoping to find evidence of the legendary 'rice boat', a vessel which is said to have been carrying food to the Axarquía area during Spain's Civil War, only to be sunk by an Italian warship just metres from the shore. It has even given rise to a local saying: 'más perdido que el barco del arroz' (more lost than the rice boat).

There are numerous stories surrounding the 'rice boat' and there are various accounts, from the initial Calaceite legend in 1937 to an incident that occurred in Chipiona in 1994. However, the common thread is that the boat was carrying rice. But for the purposes of this article, we'll say it happened off the coast of El Calaceite in Torrox.

There, they say that at the beginning of the Civil War 'El Delfín', a ship that was chartered by the Republicans to bring food to the population of Malaga, was bombed and sunk by an Italian submarine just a few metres from El Calaceite beach.

As well as rice, it is said to have been carrying flour, oil and cod, but it was the rice that gave it its nickname. The only existing witness to the events is the 16th-century watchtower which looks over the area. If it could speak, it would be able to confirm whether this, and undoubtedly many more legends, are true or not.

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Every summer, between this watchtower and the remains of the sunken ship, both diving enthusiasts and swimmers come to see the site of the legend. It exists on Google Maps just off the shore in front of Torre de Calaceite (Barco del Arroz) as a tourist attraction, so it must be true.

El Calaceite isn't the longest stretch of coastline in the Axarquía, but it offers several areas for those seeking more peace and quiet than some of its busier and more built-up neighbours. There are no beach bars or shops in sight, so the nearest options involve taking the car and losing a coveted parking space, or walking more than a kilometre along the N-340 road. It's best to take a picnic, plenty of water and be prepared to spend the day there.

One of the Calaceite beaches is Mazagarrobo, also known as the Tajo de la Virgen beach, as according to legend, a virgin appeared there. Some say it was the Virgen of Las Nieves, who is today the patron saint of Torrox, and others say it was the Virgen del Carmen, patron saint of the sea, sailors and fishermen. In any case, according to this story, her presence managed to save some fishermen from a storm. This rocky promontory is visible and accessible from the Peñoncillo road.

In recent years, the legend has found competition with one of the miniature castles erected there by the Danish artist Anton Jensen, who now has three fortresses along the Axarquía coast.