Malaga chefs share their favourite avocado recipes for the Axarquía's 'green gold'

Its creamy texture, delicate flavour and nutritional value have made it a key ingredient in many dishes

Manu Balanzino

Malaga

Monday, 10 March 2025, 17:09

While olive oil is considered the 'liquid gold' of Andalucía, the avocado is known as the 'green gold' of the Axarquía; the largely agricultural area to the east of Malaga province.

The avocado is considered globally as a superfood thanks to its creamy texture, delicate flavour and nutritional value and is used as a key ingredient in a wide range of dishes from the classic guacamole to sophisticated gourmet recipes.

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), global avocado production increased from 2.3 million tonnes in 1998 to more than 10.4 million tonnes in 2023, with an average annual growth of more than six percent.

Avocados have been grown in Malaga province for a number of decades and although there are important producers in the Guadalhorce Valley and Sierra de las Nieves, the greatest concentration of this subtropical fruit is along the coastal strip of the Axarquía. The tropical climate s ideal for this fruit which hails from the Lauraceae family, native to Latin America, especially Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Costa Rica.

In Spain it's called 'agaucate', although in much of Central and South America it is called 'palta'. Other names include aguaco, ahuaca, cura or pagua, a name used in Cuba. Humans have been eating the fruit for more than 10,000 years and there is evidence native South American civilisations cultivated it and that it formed an essential part of their diet. The Aztecs called it 'ahuacatl', which means 'testicle' in Nahuatl, probably because of its characteristic shape.

Its arrival on the Spanish mainland

It was the Spanish conquistadors who brought the avocado to Europe in the 16th century, from where its cultivation spread to other regions of the world with similar climates, such as the south of Spain, Israel and some areas of North Africa, mainly Morocco, and Asia. Today, the main producers are Mexico, Colombia, the Dominican Republic, Peru and Indonesia.

The avocado harvest in the Axarquía, where there are more than 8,000 hectares currently under cultivation, begins in November and finishes at the end of April. Although the start and end of the season is subject to climatic changes which is affecting many of the local crops.

The Spanish tropical fruit association (AET), the most important organisation in the sector which brings together more than 500 associated growers throughout Spain, is forecasting a harvest of more than 70,000 tonnes, which represents up to 20 percent more than the previous season.

Popular varieties

Harvesting time depends on the variety. There are more than 250 types worldwide, including Reed, Zutano, Gem, Carmen, Enano, Ettinger and Maluma, to name but a few. In Malaga, the Bacon and Fuerte varieties stand out, both with smooth skin, which are harvested from November onwards. The Hass variety, which accounts for more than 80 percent of world trade thanks to its long shelf life, characterised by its rough skin, starts to be harvested from December onwards. Organic production is also on the rise and is always reflected by the European seal, called Euroleaf, which is light green in colour with twelve small stars.

Nutritional benefits

Avocado, considered a superfood, is a source of healthy fats, mainly oleic acid, which contributes to the reduction of bad cholesterol (LDL) and the increase of good cholesterol (HDL). It also provides fibre, potassium, vitamin E, folic acid and antioxidants, which are beneficial for cardiovascular health, digestion and the prevention of degenerative diseases.

Innovative products and recipes

Now companies and chefs in Malaga are coming up with more and more creative ideas to use the fruit.

The pizzeria Gastro Cortijo Benítez (C/ La Jimena, 6, Edificio Los Planetas, Coín), which also makes special breads with beetroot, spinach, carob, curry and black olives, has an appetising pizza with local avocado. "The dough is made with a base of wheat flour, wholemeal spelt, durum wheat semolina and activated charcoal of vegetable origin, an ingredient recognised for its capacity to improve digestion and reduce the sensation of heaviness," says owner Salvador Macías. The base is finished with roasted aubergine, fresh onion, mozzarella cheese, a light garlic sauce, grated Guadalhorce Valley lemon zest and, of course, pieces of avocado.

There are other proposals. Kütral (C/ Guadalimar, 33, Ronda) offers a grilled avocado on its list of dishes. "First, we make a soup of previously grilled corn. Then, we cut the avocado in two and grill it, dipping it in chimichurri -an Argentinean sauce made with parsley and spices- so that it smokes. Finally, we present it with a pipirrana of peppers, rocket and grated payoya goat's cheese," explains chef Martín Abramzon.

In Marbella, Leña (Avda. Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso de Hohenlohe), one of chef Dani García's gastronomic concepts at the Hotel Puente Romano, prepares a grilled Malaga avocado with coriander pesto, vegetable salpicón and finished with crumbled feta cheese.

In Malaga city, Mi Niña Lola (C/ Campos Elíseos, s/n), at the foot of Gibralfaro, chef Pablo Rutllant prepares a pipirrana with avocado tatemado -a term from Mexican cuisine that refers to putting it over the fire-, pine nuts and Japanese vinaigrette, while El Merendero de Antonio Martín, on La Malagueta beach, has on its menu an avocado cannelloni with rillette - a French technique similar to cooking the popular lomo en manteca - red tuna, green apple and tobiko fish roe.

On Marbella's 'golden mile' is Roostiq (Villa Parra Palomeras, 61), a concept based on embers, a wood-fired oven and an exclusive wine cellar with more than 500 references, mainly Burgundies and champagnes. In this space, the avocado is served with an organic free-range chicken breast, from the restaurant's own farms, to which is added a portion of quinoa, another superfood.

Chef Víctor Carracedo, at the helm of Paladar Taberna (Avda. Antonio Belón, 2, Marbella), presents grilled avocado with pink tomato caviar, fresh spring onion, toasted pine nuts, coriander leaves, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

And for those with a sweet tooth, Mayte Sánchez, who runs Maychoco, a small cocoa roastery in Benajarafe mixes avocado with chocolate. "We are in direct contact with nature and the season of each product. Very close to our workshop, we have the organic farm El Baldomero. We received some wonderful, creamy and tasty avocados and that's where the idea of making this chocolate came from", explains the master chocolatier.

Beyond the kitchen

The avocado is also used in various agri-food products. La Molienda Verde, a small company from Banalauría, prepares a marmalade with the fruit. The avocado is mixed with the tomato, both of which are organic, and is ideal for breakfast, as an accompaniment to different dishes or as a sauce. Another great product, which came from Mexico to Europe, is guacamole. Frutas Montosa, based in Vélez-Málaga, started to produce its original recipe in 2007 using avocado, onion, jalapeño, garlic and coriander, among other ingredients.

On the other hand, Axarfruit, located in La Viñuela in the Axarquía, has launched AvoCheese, an avocado sauce with goat's cheese. Another product is 'avonnaise', an avocado mayonnaise, free from eggs, dairy and gluten, made by the company Paltavo and works well in hamburgers, cured meats or sandwiches.

There is also avocado honey produced by companies including La Alquería de la Sierra with its beehives located near the avocado tree flowers. In addition, a few years ago, Juan Manuel Moreno, creator of the Pan Piña bakery (C/ Plazoleta, 12, Algatocín) and of the most expensive bread in the world, made an avocado bread, replacing saturated vegetable fats like palm oil with the fruit.

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