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Louise Montefiore
Normandy
Friday, 26 July 2024, 16:05
On the banks of the River Seine, just an hour and a half from Paris by train, lies Rouen, Normandy's vibrant port capital. Bursting with culture and architectural wonders, it has served as inspiration for countless artists - and it is not hard to see why. Walking down its colourful cobbled streets will take you on a journey through time. What's more, it is the only city in France to have been recognised for its gastronomy by Unesco. Combining history, art, and delicious food and drink, this northwestern French city's incredible heritage should not be overlooked.
This stretch of the Seine Valley has been attractive for centuries; what started as the Roman city of Rotomagus would later become the capital of the ancient Duchy of Normandy, Rouen. Its port has made the city prosperous throughout much of its history, allowing important trade links with the rest of the world. On a stroll through Rouen's narrow streets, lined with charmingly crooked, timber-framed houses, you will find history around every corner - it is no wonder it has been dubbed a 'museum-city'.
Rouen's best-known moment in history? When Joan of Arc, France's famous patron saint, was tragically burnt at the stake in 1431, in Rouen's Place du Vieux-Marché. Today, this is a lively square, buzzing with cafés and bistros. A ten minute walk from here, the Historial Jeanne d'Arc is an interactive museum dedicated to telling Joan of Arc's incredible story.
A lesser-known part of Rouen's history is its Jewish legacy. Before their expulsion from France in 1306, a considerable Jewish population lived in the city. Testament to their presence is France's oldest known Jewish construction, discovered by chance under a car park in 1976. The 12th-century building is today named La Maison Sublime and is open to visitors.
Just a couple of streets away is the Rue du Gros-Horloge. Here, you cannot miss the impressive 14th-century astronomical clock set into the archway above the street, so spectacular that it has inspired paintings by the likes of J. M. W. Turner. The inside of the building reveals the clock's mechanisms and, from the top of the belfry, you can enjoy stunning views over the city.
But Rouen's crown jewel is without a doubt its magnificent gothic cathedral, which, built over a period of 800 years, boasts a unique blend of architectural styles. Towering over the city, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is France's tallest cathedral, and famously inspired a series of around 30 paintings by none other than Claude Monet in the late 1800s.
Monet and Turner are not the only painters to have been inspired by Rouen's beauty. Its prime location between Paris and the Normandy coast has encouraged artists to flock there for centuries. Lovers of impressionism will be keen to discover for themselves the city that has been the subject of paintings by Pissaro and Sisley. Gauguin, too, painted Rouen. Some of these works are on display in the city itself, at the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which boasts an impressive permanent collection, with pieces from the 16th century to the present day, as well as stellar temporary exhibitions.
It is not just painters who have taken inspiration from Rouen; it is also the birthplace of some of France's most influential writers. Gustave Flaubert, author of Madame Bovary, and Maurice Leblanc, the creator of the gentleman thief Arsène Lupin, were born in the city. Pierre Corneille, one of France's greatest playwrights, is also a famous 'Rouennais'. Guy de Maupassant, too, has connections with the city, as he attended school in Rouen from the age of thirteen, and wrote about his experiences there.
And we cannot forget how Victor Hugo whimsically described Rouen as the 'city of a hundred spires', for the many churches sprinkled across its skyline - make sure not to miss the Église Saint-Maclou and the more recently constructed Église Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc.
It is easy to understand why so many artists have been inspired by the city. It is truly a hub of architectural beauty, heritage and culture. An important part of this culture is, of course, its mouth-watering cuisine. Normandy is renowned for its cider and its camembert - and what better place to indulge than in the region's capital?
In fact, Rouen was named a 'Unesco City of Gastronomy' in 2021, and is the first and only city in France to have been granted this title. In a country with such rich culinary heritage, this is a real testament to Rouen's fantastic local cuisine. This can be tested in its countless cafés, bakeries and brasseries, or at one of the local markets. The most famous is held on the Place du Vieux-Marché on Tuesday to Sunday mornings. Others also take place at Place de la Calende and Place Saint-Marc. Here, you will find bountiful, high-quality local produce, including the cheese, seafood and apples that Normandy is famous for.
The region has over 70 varieties of apple, with 50 of these alone used to make cider. A Rouen specialty, the 'sucre de pomme de Rouen' is a typical apple-flavoured sweet which dates back to the 16th century, when it was allegedly invented in an apothecary.
There is plenty of opportunity to discover Normandy's gorgeous coastline from Rouen.
Around an hour's drive from the city are the seaside towns of Quiberville, Pourville, Veulettes-sur-Mer, Étretat, Veules-les-Roses and Saint-Valery-en-Caux, with their beautiful stone beaches and iconic cliff faces. Or, if a trip to the beach isn't your thing, Honfleur is a romantic, quaint port town up the Seine from Rouen, and has also been the subject of paintings by Monet.
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