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Anthony Piovesan
Sofia
Friday, 29 December 2023, 15:33
Your first 'banitsa', a Bulgarian cheese pie, might be slightly mediocre, but by the end of your stay in Sofia you'll be full of hot tips on where to grab the best one in the city and racing out the door before 11am to grab it before they're sold out for the day. You may ask, is a pastry worth the bold effort of journeying to the icy capital of Bulgaria in late November? For me, yes. A pastry is always worth it, particularly Bulgaria's traditional one. But there are so many more reasons to explore Sofia, and the adventure merely starts with this ubiquitous local delight. Crafted from filo dough, its layers of pastry, flakey at first, then soft, fluffy and buttery inside, with just the right dash of oil, sprinkle of salt and crumbly feta cheese filling, are just the fuel you'll need for the next few hours as you stroll around this mysterious city, admiring the golden domes of the huge Aleksandr Nevsky Cathedral set against the dark sky and wandering into New York-esque underground speakeasies for a midday, or midnight beverage.
Despite sub-zero overnight temperatures, Sofia springs to life in late November and December. It has two Christmas markets that are open all day and well into the evening. One is spread out in the royal gardens outside the National Palace of Culture, and the other in the heart of the city centre, next to the Ivan Vazov National Theatre. The hearty German sausages and potatoes or a cup of hot chocolate with marshmallows that will tempt you when it's 8pm and 0 degrees, or, to really get your cheeks flushing, a cup of mulled wine. For just 3 lev (1.50 euros) you can fill the cup yourself, right to the brim if you please. Just pay attention to how much you consume, as it'll make for an entertaining walk back to your hotel on Sofia's icy footpaths.
Sofia only became capital of Bulgaria as recently as 1879, taking the position from Veliko Tarnovo after 600 years. The new capital was chosen strategically as one of the most defendable locations on the Balkans. Sofia is flanked by six mountains on all sides. Most notably, to the east are the Ihtiman heights and and the pass of Trajan's Gate, where the army of Basil II, the former emperor of the Byzantine Empire, was routed.
Sofia was a muddy underdeveloped town of just 12,000 inhabitants when it was named as the capital, marking the end of Bulgaria's dark ages under Ottoman rule. The Thracians were the first to conquer the city some 2,700 years ago, then it was the Romans, the Byzantine Empire, the Ottoman Turks, and then the Communists. A total of 17 years after joining the European Union, the Bulgarian capital has finally come into its own.
A statue of Sofia's patron saint now stands tall where the old monument of the Soviet Communist Vladimir Lenin once stood. The dark princess is supposed to embody the city's old-meets-new allure. But in fact, a lot of the locals, particularly the older ones who experienced communism have a restrained reaction and hate it. They say she is a constant curse and the cause of all corruption as she directs her gaze towards the city's National Assembly building, her outreached right hand holding a laurel wreath, a powerful symbol for Greeks and Romans meaning peace and success, but it is said she stole the wreath from a grave, bringing bad luck instead. It also said the owl on her left hand - supposed to represent wisdom - looks more like a raven and therefore represents loss and poor fortune. People also believe that psychedelic chemicals circulate around her dark pupils, and a bump under her skirt signifies a penis, and that Saint Sofia is actually a hermaphrodite.
Interesting tales are aplenty in Sofia. I turned a corner, hoping there was a bar I could wander into for some warmth and a spot by the window so I could sit and people-watch, but instead there was a magnificent church, as is so often the case in Sofia. I had stumbled across what's locally known as the 'Russian church'. It had only just reopened to the public after it was rocked by a big scandal. Just weeks ago local media reported that Bulgaria expelled the abbot for being a Russian spy, as well as two other clerics of the St Nikolay Mirlikiskii Chudtovorets church. Sofia has expelled more than 100 alleged spies in recent years while also initiating arrests of a number of Bulgarians accused of collaborating with and passing sensitive information to Russian intelligence.
Sofia shows streaks of its dark Communist past, but it is overwhelmed by the city's youthful and creative energy. For every miserable, decrepit communist-era building there's a multitude of modern fusion restaurants and New York-inspired cocktail bars to spice things up. One, with the original title The Cocktail Bar, is located in a tiny hidden garden. Enclosed by glass, from floor to ceiling, you can enjoy panoramic views of the courtyard and bustling Solunska and Angel Kanchev streets as the evening sets in and the snow starts to fall, and an experienced mixologist prepares your favourite cocktail.
The 5L Speakeasy is another terrific experience, if you can work out how to get past the entrance. Inspired by the 1920s when the serving of alcohol was banned in America, you need to find 5L's secret door, and then the right key that fits a second door, which will eventually lead to a cosy spot by the bar.
One of the city's best-kept secrets is a rundown underpass that has been converted into a disco. Difficult to find as it is completely underground and without a proper address, the secret space is right between boulevard Vasil Levski and Georgi Rakovski street. Once you get near you'll notice the neon lights at the entrance, and once inside you'll be treated to a spooky gallery of illuminated pictures that capture common sights and scenes of Sofia.
Bulgaria is also famous for its fragrant roses, as evidenced by the annual Rose Festival in Kazanlak each June. The country exports the bulk of the world's rose oil, so it's highly plausible that it is in the perfume and soap you're currently using. Rose oil and other rose-infused beauty products are always a good idea for a gift, or a souvenir to remember your time in Sofia. So is a bantisa, but I think you already know that.
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