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Javier Almellones
Benarrabá
Friday, 3 January 2025, 11:42
Given the day it is celebrated and the route it takes, the first impression is that it's just another parade. However, it also bears features of a living nativity scene, complete with a theatrical performance.
The tradition of celebrating the Auto Sacramental (mystery play) of the Three Kings is something rather unusual. At least in the province of Malaga, although there are other Andalusian towns and some places in the Levant that also celebrate it, although not always on the eve of Epiphany.
This theatrical performance, also known as the Adoration of the Magi, has uncertain origins, though it seems likely to have been written in the 20th century. The original text was discovered more than a century ago. Considered the first theatrical work in Castilian, it remains very much alive today thanks to villagers like those of Benarrabá in the Serranía de Ronda, who have decided to preserve it as part of their festive calendar.
Every 5 January at around 9pm, a large part of this village in the Lower Genal area takes part in a theatrical performance that winds through various parts of the town's historic centre.
Unlike typical parades, this event unfolds as a true story told in five distinct acts, from Mary and Joseph's arrival in Bethlehem to the meeting of the Three Kings with the baby Jesus.
The procession winds through some of Benarrabá's most well-known locations. The main characters are Melchior, Caspar, and Balthazar, who, instead of riding camels, travel on mules. They are accompanied by servants, shepherds and little angels, who, along with the audience, sing carols throughout the journey.
They are guided by a star, which each year is carried by the best donkey in the village.
The climax of this mystery play usually takes place at the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, where the Three Kings hand out gifts to the village children.
This is a great opportunity to visit this charming mountain village, nestled in an ideal location, and to enjoy the Genal valley. In fact, from there you can take in the excellent panoramic views and even embark on one of the many hiking routes to make the most of your day.
Before that, though, it's worth exploring the historic centre, especially around the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, as this is the prettiest area, with colourful pots and well-kept façades.
In addition to the aforementioned church, a visit to the Hermitage of Cristo de la Vera Cruz is highly recommended – a sanctuary that holds special significance for the locals.
As for hiking routes, there's plenty to choose from. The most challenging but particularly rewarding one is the trail to the neighbouring village of Genalguacil, located on the opposite side of the valley. From the village centre, this route offers a beautiful descent through chestnut trees – bare of leaves in early winter – to the Prado de la Escribana, a recreational area along the Genal river. From there, the toughest part begins: ascending a winding path to Genalguacil.
Benarrabá also has paths connecting it with other neighbouring villages in the Genal valley, such as Gaucín and Algatocín. However, there are easier routes that can be completed in just a morning or, at most, by early afternoon. These include the Llano del Rey route and the Concoste-La Portá route, both circular trails, as is the ornithological route, one of the latest additions to the area's network of trails.
Benarrabá also boasts several culinary attractions. The village takes pride in its tradition of preparing salmorejo de carne (a sort of thick gazpacho but with meat included), which can be found in at least two local restaurants. Behind its name lies a recipe as ancient as it is delicious. Be sure to also make room for their sausages and other pork products.
Church. This parish church, with its colourful tower visible from much of the historic centre, dates back to the 18th century. It still retains many of its original Baroque features despite being restored in the 19th century.
Where: From Calle Calzada.
Chapel. This emblematic sanctuary, which was built in the same century as the church, is located in the square of the same name.
Where: Plaza de la Vera Cruz.
Central. In the more traditional streets of Benarrabá, such as those surrounding the Church of the Encarnación, the distinctive features of the white mountain villages of Andalucía, such as colourful pots and whitewashed façades, are evident.
Genal. From the village, you can take a scenic route to this riverside location or even continue on to Genalguacil or the Puente de San Juan
Where: Río Genal.
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Nuria Triguero | Málaga
Óscar Beltrán de Otálora y Gonzalo de las Heras
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