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Paco Lorente
UMI, in San Pedro Alcántara: a tribute to the taste of the sea
The food critic

UMI, in San Pedro Alcántara: a tribute to the taste of the sea

A great deal of technique, precision, and respect for the product in every dish on the menu ·

Tuesday, 22 April 2025, 09:55

UMI isn’t just the name of one of the most successful Japanese restaurants on this part of the Costa del Sol - it also represents a Japanese culinary philosophy. In essence, it invites diners to savour the flavour and texture of every bite of sushi, while enjoying a wide range of styles, from traditional classics to bold, cutting-edge creations by contemporary chefs. The Japanese word "umi" means “sea” or “ocean,” reflecting the fusion of seafood - fish and shellfish - with the refined techniques of Japanese cuisine.

UMI: Japanese-Mediterranean fusion

UMI: Japanese-Mediterranean fusion
  • Address Avda. de Las Palmeras 25

  • Telephone 951 624 660

  • Closed Sundays

  • Web umimarbella.com

  • Prices Volcán de gambas: 13 euros | Tiradito ventresca: 16 euros | Nigiri wagyu: 12 euros each.

  • Evaluation Cuisine: 8; Dining room: 6.5; Wine list: 7

  • Rating 7.5 / 10

At the helm of the kitchen are the two owners of the restaurant, Edgar Verón and Jesús López, the latter considered one of Malaga’s top sushi chefs, as he has already shown at his other restaurant, Nakara, in Estación de Cártama. At UMI, diners can choose where to sit - at the bar to watch the meticulous preparation of this complex and unique cuisine up close, in the main dining room, or out on the terrace.

At UMI, special tribute is paid to everything that comes from the sea - though you’ll also find wagyu beef featured in some of their creations. Still, what you shouldn’t forget when visiting this restaurant is that its very name signals a full immersion into the sea, through its flavours, textures, and aromas.If my visit to Nakara a few months ago was deeply satisfying, UMI certainly lives up to - if not surpasses - those expectations. Here, you’ll find carefully crafted, respectful Japanese cuisine, with creative dishes that stay true to the philosophy that has guided the restaurant since its inception, earning it a place among the best in its category. This is not just thanks to the quality of the ingredients, but also to the prices, which prove that excellent Japanese food can be made accessible without breaking the bank.

Each day, Edgar and Jesús prepare off-menu specials based on what’s fresh at the market, along with some signature dishes already known from Nakara, like the shrimp volcano or the pulled meat bao. The wine list isn’t extensive in terms of labels, but it does feature a few well-chosen bottles that pair perfectly with this style of cuisine.

Tiradito ventresca de atún (tuna belly)

There are few secrets to this dish. It’s all about high-quality ingredients, the right cut and thickness of the tuna belly, and just the right additions to enhance the flavor and give the tuna a touch of salinity. Very good.

Volcán de gambas (prawn volcano)

This dish became a must-have for Nakara’s regulars, and now it's following the same path at UMI. Tempura prawns with just the right crunch, served with a mildly spicy mayonnaise - just enough heat to lift the flavor without overpowering it. A fusion of flavours.

Gyozas de rabo de toro (oxtail gyozas)

Here, you'll discover a true fusion of Andalusian and Japanese cuisine through a serving of gyozas, where the delicate, slightly silky dough pairs perfectly with the rich oxtail filling, creating a bite that's both juicy and melt-in-the-mouth.

Nigiri de salmonetes (red mullet nigiri)

Nigiris typically don’t need much accompaniment beyond a bit of soy sauce, since the sushi is already seasoned with the rice and wasabi used in its preparation. This red mullet nigiri stands out for the unmistakable flavour of the fish - a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

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