REI Casares: Creativity and originality at the Hotel Finca Cortesín

Luis Olarra is on fire, without having been born or trained in Japan, as he is from Bizkaia and has settled in Malaga, he is, without a doubt, one of the best interpreters of creative and fusion Japanese cuisine. At the head of REI, in the Hotel Finca Cortesín, he is managing to make this restaurant a reference point when it comes to Japanese cuisine. The decoration, the room service and the careful selection of wines by another great professional, Agustín Navarro, make possible the rise and recognition of the establishment.

REI, which in Japanese means courtesy and a cult of manners, is precisely that, a cult of offering a daily fusion of Japanese and Malaga cuisine without getting lost when it comes to combining different foods and ways of preparing them in the same dish. When I visited this restaurant two years ago, having recently changed its name, I already sensed that Olarra was going to provide us with great gastronomic moments, as was the case at the dinner we had recently.

The current menu gives the customer full control over the ordering process, although there is always the option of a tasting menu (155 euros per person), which is served for the whole table. Among the most interesting fusion dishes on the menu are the tortitas de camerónes (crispy shrimp fritters), the flavour of which is exceptional, and the crispy clams with garlic and plankton. Sushi fanatics can also enjoy the chef's varied selection served per person or for every two people.

The variety of tartare on the menu is designed to satisfy the most demanding palates with seafood flavours. However, if we want to enjoy this Mediterranean-Japanese fusion, it is in the main dishes where we find the most originality and creativity. The free-range chicken with lime and ginger and the Iberian pork with breadcrumbs and smokey sauce are not to be missed, but there is also room for the desserts, especially the saikio miso (a mild, slightly sweet miso) with crème anglaise.

Assortment of niguiris: Luis Olarra gives the perfect texture to the sushi rice. A selection of six niguiris (tuna, two versions of salmon, turbot, scallop and tuna belly) is ideal to satisfy the most demanding palate.

Turbot with plankton sauce: In the Roman Empire, turbot was considered the pheasant of the sea. All the salty, marine flavour comes through in the plankton sauce that serves as a base for the fish, although the touch of edamame in the sauce is barely noticeable.

Carabinero al Hosper: This dish, usually not on the menu, is undoubtedly one of the best dishes in Rei's gastronomic offer. Carabinero al Hosper is served with the head on the side of the dish and the body in its own broth with trout roe.

Duck breast with red fruit teriyaki: Original and creative fusion of a duck breast, perfectly cooked, with a teriyaki made with red fruits that add freshness and a very balanced acidity to give more juiciness to the meat itself.

Address: Hotel Finca Cortesín. Telephone: 952 937 800. Closed: Mondays. Opening times: Exclusively for dinner. Web: fincacortesin.com

Prices: Sushis Rei. 1 pp: 55€; Turbot: 40€; Duck breast: 42€.

Rating: Cuisine: 9 Room: 9 Wine list: 9.5 Rating: 9 / 10