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
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Alekk M. Saanders
Friday, 31 March 2023
Bienmesabe confuses many people, even Spanish, who think that waiters are making fun of them by serving a savoury fish dish instead of a sweet dessert, or in reverse. This is not a prank. Bienmesabe is the same name for different dishes, with different ingredients. In Malaga province, bienmesabe is a sponge-based pudding, and in the neighbouring Cadiz, it is what they call a marinated dogfish, or rather shark. The word is a conglomeration of three Spanish words (bien, me, sabe) meaning ‘it tastes good to me.” And this is true, because they are both delicious.
Many people, especially for Easter, head to Antequera to try the mouth-watering sweet - bienmesabe Antequerano. It is a typical dessert from this beautiful town to the north of Malaga. Its origins might be Moorish but locals stress that it dates back to 1635. The exact year is known because the Convento de Clausura de Belén de las Monjas Clarisas say that its nuns have been baking bienmesabe for almost 400 years. Honey, egg yolk, ground almonds, cinnamon, sugar and ‘cabello de ángel’ (made from pumpkin pulp) are primary ingredients in the preparation of this sweet. Moreover, there are some versions of the recipe where lemon zest, sweet wine or sherry are also used.
In Cadiz province, a fish dish is also known as bienmesabe. This, one of the traditional dishes of Andalusian cuisine, is made from cubes of dogfish, marinated and then fried. Dogfish is translated into Spanish as ‘cazón’ and is actually a species of shark. Dogfish enjoy the temperate waters of the Andalusian coast including Malaga province. These creatures live in the depths of the ocean and are bottom feeders. With its usual size of only two metres and weighing just about forty-five kilograms – the local shark is quite far from the frightening image of some of their relatives.
In Malaga, marinated dogfish is known as adobo. The name adobo comes from the verb adobar and means marinade. The sauces may vary but are usually based on paprika, oregano, salt, garlic and vinegar. These spices help to preserve and enhance the flavour of dogfish.
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