Madrid Fusión crowns Axel Smyth as the new star of the kitchen

The Galician chef of Irish descent achieved two awards including Cocinero Revelación alongside his partner and co-owner, Claudia Merchán

Guillermo Elejabeitia

Madrid

Friday, 7 February 2025, 12:12

Top chef Ferran Adrià remarked in the auditorium of Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España that it is time to renew the 'star system' of Spanish cuisine. The professionals who set fire to the rulebook three decades ago are now greying, and the industry is eager for fresh faces.

Axel Smyth was added to that stellar lineup spearheading the hospitality and food sector last Tuesday at Madrid Fusión. The Galician chef of Irish descent has had an epic season, securing his first Michelin star, first place in the San Sebastián Gastronomika tripe stew competition, victory in the croquette championship, and the grand prize at Madrid Fusión-the Cocinero Revelación (breakthrough chef) title, which he shares with his partner and co-owner, Claudia Merchán.

His achievement echoes that of the team from Cañitas Mayte in Albacete, who were complete unknowns when they achieved a treble victory -best croquette, best escabeche, and Cocinero Revelación - in the 2021 event. Smyth displayed a typically Galician composure while speaking to the press yesterday. "This is the perfect finishing touch to an incredible year. It's clear that our hard work has been worth it," he said.

Trained under masters such as Marcelo Tejedor ("my mentor"), Paco Pérez of Miramar, Caco Agrasar of As Garzas, and José Carlos García from Malaga, Smyth has infused his restaurant, Simpar, with a sense of relaxed creativity, built on recognisable flavours that honour tradition.

Claudia Merchán and Smyth met while studying at the Basque Culinary Centre and later worked together at restaurants such as Casa Elena in Toledo. Their joint venture in the historic centre of Santiago de Compostela opened its doors in September 2023 and quickly won the applause of food critics. They offer two tasting menus, with 11 or 14 bites, featuring, among other things, a croquette - the secret of which Smyth refuses to reveal - and tripe with chickpeas. Their menu also reinterprets classic dishes such as garlic mushrooms, consommé, Galician-style fish, and Tarta de Santiago, playing with textures "without ever losing sight of the original flavour".

Award winners

Smyth and Merchán now join a prestigious list of professionals recognised by Madrid Fusión early in their careers, alongside Dabiz Muñoz, Ricard Camarena, and Rodrigo de la Calle. The award's jury, sponsored by Balfegó, also selected two finalists: Lucía Gutiérrez, from Lur in Madrid - the youngest contestant - and Ausiàs Signes and Felicia Guerra, from Ausiàs in Alicante.

The 'Most Promising Pastry Chef' award went to Luis Fernández, a young talent working at Hotel Eunice in Salamanca. He beat a strong field of finalists, including Claudia Merchán, nominated as Simpar's pastry chef.

The 'Best Front-of-House Professional' award was presented to Andrea Martín from Tragatá in Malaga - a restaurant already familiar with culinary competitions, having won 'Best Russian Salad' in Spain a few years ago at San Sebastián Gastronomika.

The awards were rounded out with sustainability prizes for Miguel Ángel de la Cruz, Blanca and Samuel Moreno, and Lara Rodríguez, along with a 'Best Stand award for Frutas Eloy, whose display paid tribute to Valencia with a traditional barraca structure (a whitewashed, thatched building typical of Valencia's architectural heritage).

The final day of the event also showcased inspiring projects, including the zero-waste philosophy of Albert Franch (Catalonia), Carlos Henriques (Portugal), and Luka Balac (Serbia) at Nolla in Helsinki; the landscape-inspired cuisine of Javier Olleros at El Culler de Pau; the ingredient concealment techniques of Javi Estévez at La Tasquería; and the essential Catalan cuisine of Jordi Vila.

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