La Jábega (Torremolinos): Fresh seafood cuisine

Enrique Bellver

Tuesday, 22 April 2025, 09:18

La Jábega is one of the longest-standing chiringuitos (beach restaurants) on El Saltillo beach, in the La Carihuela area, with a history that spans over forty years. Fernándo Márquez has been running the business for the past 35 years, and now his son, also named Fernando, represents the second generation at the helm. Their cuisine, based on fresh market produce, carries a subtle influence from northern Spain — a nod to Fernando senior’s Basque father-in-law, who was a fishmonger in the port of Pasajes (Guipúzcoa). As a result, the menu features a few specialties inspired by the traditional methods of grilling fish over embers, as is common in the north. One standout dish is the grilled turbot, which is first spit-roasted and then finished over the coals.

Over the years — most recently with a renovation completed last year — La Jábega has become a true beach restaurant in every sense of the word. Tables are elegantly set, complete with proper tablecloths and there’s a climate-controlled wine display, as well as a kitchen that lives up to diners’ expectations for a venue of this calibre. The value for money is excellent, especially considering the top-quality seafood that Fernando personally selects, and the prices that high-end fish and shellfish command at the market.

The name La Jábega pays homage both to the traditional fishing boats once used to catch sardines, anchovies, and mackerel along this coastline, and to the ancient art of beach seining (a traditional method of fishing that involves dragging a long fishing net (called a seine) through the water, usually starting from the shore but also from the boats). Although this method is now banned, the restaurant proudly preserves the name and honours its legacy through expertly grilled and fried fish. Personally, I prefer fried fish over the espetos (sardines on skewers) — the quality of the oil, the freshness of the catch, and the perfect frying temperature make all the difference.

The rice dishes are consistently good, though based on my experience, they’re not the restaurant’s standout offering. On the other hand, the shellfish — especially concha fina (local clams), bolos (a type of clam) and the grilled prawns — are exceptional, praised for their size, flavour and overall quality. The wine list is also one of the most commendable in the area, offering an impressive and diverse selection.

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Fritura variada (mixed fried fish). La Jábega wouldn’t be what it is today without its signature fritura malagueña — a classic Malaga-style fried fish dish. There’s no real secret to it: just a careful selection of the freshest, highest-quality fish, and the use of good oil at just the right temperature.

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Arroz caldoso de pescado y marisco (rice with fish and seafood). The base used to cook the rice says it all. This arroz caldoso is rich with the deep, savoury flavour of mussels and rockfish, present in every spoonful. A dish that keeps you going back for bite after bite.

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Conchas malagueñas (Malaga shellfish). When quality matters — and it always does — there’s no better way to start a meal than with a selection of conchas malagueñas. The concha fina reigns supreme for its size and freshness, accompanied by bolos (another local clam) that are just as fresh, firm and full of texture.

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Rodaballo a la brasa (grilled turbot). Grilled fish, either cooked on a spit or finished in the northern style, is another specialty at La Jábega. In this case, the turbot came a little overdone, which unfortunately took away some of its natural juiciness and flavor.

Address and contact : Paseo marítimo La Carihuela. Telephone: 952 384 765. Opening hours: Open every day for lunch. Dinner from Wednesday to Sunday.

Prices: Pepper salad: 9€ Fish rice: 32€ Monkfish medallions: 25€.

Rating: Cuisine: 7; Room: 6.5; Wine list: 6.5; Rating: 7 / 10