Back, creative local cuisine in Marbella

Enrique Bellver

Monday, 17 February 2025, 12:07

David Olivas and Fabián Villar first opened Back as a gastrobar, then they decided to do a complete reform, consisting of removing the bar and making more space between the tables, then they gave more visibility to the kitchen and lastly, with a Michelín star already in their pocket, renewed the restaurant furniture, creating a better sense of exclusivity in the dining area itself. But what has been changing little by little, with barely any fanfare, is David's cuisine, which has positioned this restaurant as one of the great establishments in Andalucía, a creative cuisine, full of imagination and a dining area where everything works with the precision of a Swiss watch. Fabián, in addition to being responsible for the wine cellar and the wine list, is also in charge of the service.

This same year Back and, of course Fabián, have won the Award for Best Service 2025 in SUR's annual Quién es Quién guide (Who's Who in Malaga's gastronomy). After my last visit, there is no doubt that the award is more than deserved.

In 2011 he won the Mejor Sumiller Joven de Andalucía (Best Young Sommelier) and three years later he was proclaimed Best Andalusian Sommelier. Since 2016 he has been working with David Olivas as co-owner of this restaurant and both have managed in such a short space of time to make his establishment a reference not only for the cuisine, but also for the excellent service and wine cellar. Back's new menu, 'Entorno', is a creative homage to local cuisine. The first of the dishes, 'Nuestra Interpretación del Salpìcón de Marisco' (Our Interpretation of Seafood Salpìcón), is where David gives free rein to his creativity, while at the same time he refines it with well-thought-out, tried and tested culinary techniques; razor clams, sea urchin roe, shrimps, vegetables and red pepper ice cream are combined in the same dish to fuse textures and flavours to unsuspected limits, as happens again with a veal tartare, beef broth, marrow and caviar or some young peas with baby squid from the coast with a smooth, cured ham sauce.

Dishes that go beyond the globalised cuisine of the 21st century and where Olivas reveals himself as one of the great Andalusian chefs. Visiting Back, either à la carte or menu, is an experience.

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Beef tartare

A groundbreaking beef tartare that can only be tasted on the 'Entorno' menu. The contrast of textures and flavours is found in the beef consommé gelée with marrow and a touch of caviar that adds saltiness. Great!

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Peas with baby squid

Tender peas accompanied with baby squid and a smooth sauce with cured ham.

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Cured sea bass

A good cut of fish with the skin. It arrives at the table on a base of fish sauce emulsified with the fat of the sea bass and clams. A soft, almost ethereal ice cream of fine herbs adds contrast to the dish.

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Roast duck breast

What may seem to be a classic dish, David has achieved the opposite. It is the perfect finishing touch to the savoury dishes before dessert. The duck is confit in its own juices.