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Juanjo Carmona has fulfilled one of his professional dreams, to have his own restaurant. Hot embers have become the basis and essence of his cuisine, a cuisine that is not completely detached from the one he had been practising in Cávala, more focused on fish and seafood, but which in his restaurant is extended to meats and vegetables cooked over embers, either on the grill or in a charcoal oven. The result has not been long in coming and today Aviva is already a gastronomic reference in Altos del Higuerón.
Many years ago, when he had not yet made the leap to El Lago and was in the kitchen of a small family restaurant in Fuengirola, Girol, I began to follow him due to his ability to update traditional cuisine towards more creative proposals. His time at the Marbella restaurant, where he maintained its Michelin star, and later at Soho in Malaga, have helped him to consolidate his professionalism and become one of the Malaga chefs of the moment, especially after winning first prize in the Cocinando el Mar competition at the previous edition of Madrid Fusión.
Aviva offers a different menu than anywhere else in the area. One of its main characteristics is the dynamism of the dishes, updated regularly according to the season and the market. The idea of an ever-changing, lively menu is essential for a clientele that returns after their first visit, as is the idea of maintaining a tasting menu (95€) that includes the main dishes on the menu, including the dish that led to its triumph at Madrid Fusión, red snapper with garlic and braised spinach.
However, alongside the embers there are also stews, as Juanjo's cuisine is one of depths, flavours and contrasts, such as lentils with ham or the casserole of langoustines and artichokes. Next to him is Yuri Capano, his trusted chef and right-hand man for several years.
The wine list is identified by its good value for money and its diversity, with more than 100 references, both classic and modern.
Address: Avda. Retamar. Local 7. Benalmádena
Telephone: 625 329 205
Closed: Sundays and Mondays.
Prices: Cazuela de cigalas: 20€; Tortilla con caviar: 19.50€; Pichón: 29€
Valuation: Kitchen: 8.5; Dining room: 7; Wine list: 7; Rating: 8.5/10
Caballa curada (cured mackerel)
Juanjo once again demonstrates in this dish his knowledge and skill when it comes to treating each type of fish. Mackerel pairs perfectly with a fermented tomato water which softens its flavour.
Tortilla de patata con caviar y papada ibérica (potato omelette with caviar and Iberian ham)
This is the least striking and elaborate dish on most of Aviva's menu. A potato omelette, very well prepared, juicy and where the caviar only adds a salty touch.
Cazuela de cigalas (langoustine casserole)
A vegetable stew, where the artichoke and medium-sized langoustines stand out in their perfect texture and juiciness. Carmona achieves in this stew a balance between vegetables and seafood of outstanding quality.
c con thermidor de boletus (pigeon with boletus thermidor)
Surprise! Only the most experienced chefs today dare to use pigeon, a bird that needs to be lightly cooked on the stove if it is to be at its best. A boletus sauce balances this masterful dish.
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