Arxiduna in Archidona: Cuisine with original flavours

Francisco Fernández has owned the restaurant of reference in this Malaga province town for many years. His cuisine, a fusion of traditional dishes from the Antequera region using local products and new culinary techniques to update these traditional recipes in more creative or avant-garde elaborations; although if we look at his menu, it is immediately clear that most are based on popular and traditional cuisine that never goes out of fashion. However, this restaurant has been committed to innovation since its beginnings.

The restaurant could not have a better location, right in the centre of Archidona, in the Plaza Ochavada, a jewel of 18th century town planning. The square was built in 1786 by two architects who proposed to build an octagonal square following a French model. Today this square is an Andalusian Heritage Site and has become a must-see for all first-time visitors to Archidona. The establishment occupies four caves on the ground floor of a building in the square and it is in these spaces where the dining rooms and the kitchen itself are located, as well as an area used as a wine cellar. All of this makes this restaurant unique in the region.

Arxiduna's menu is divided into several sections, the most important of which is meat, most of which is grilled over olive wood charcoal. Among its specialities are dishes such as picaña de retinta, braised venison loin and the so-called 'putaitas ibéricas'. But perhaps the most appealing is not the traditional meats, but some of its starters, among these, the chuletón croquettes or the pastela de salchichón de Málaga are dishes that must be tried on the first visit. There is a wide range of croquettes, with the beef croquettes being the best, crunchy, flavourful and juicy. Don't leave without tasting the 'porra arxidunesa', with some variations on the 'porra antequerana'. The wine offer in Arxiduna is a bit sparse, although in its favour is the proliferation of wines with D.O. Málaga, especially from the area. Arxiduna offers honest cuisine, sensible prices and good service.

Ajoblanco de pistachios (white garlic soup with pistachios)

A clear example of Arxiduna's cooking philosophy, a fusion of tradition and modernity. An ajoblanco to which pistachios are added to give it more flavour and colour. The finely chopped anchovies in vinegar add elegance in the mouth.

Porrilla de setas (cream of wild mushrooms)

One of the seasonal specialities that most closely follows the traditional cuisine of the region. Smooth, consistent and flavoursome, this porrilla from Archidona where mushrooms, picked in the vicinity of the town, form the basis of this dish.

Pastela de salchichón de Málaga (Malaga sausage tart)

Originality and a restrained touch of creativity in crafting an exquisitely delicate pastry. The cinnamon is well-balanced, though the salchichón, being part of a spicy dish, ends up slightly overcooked.

Tarta de zanahoria morada (purple carrot cake)

A cake made with purple carrots is an original, eye-catching and very attractive dessert. Paco makes it from a local product, the Cuevas Bajas carrot. Moist and flavoursome.

Address: Plaza Ochavada, 7. Telephone: 951 835 207. Web: www.restaurantearxiduna.com Closed: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.

Prices: Pasteña de salchichón: 5€; Picaña de vaca: 22€; Tarta de zanahoria: 5.50€.

Rating: Cuisine: 7; dining room: 6.5; Wine list: 6 Rating: 7 / 10